Protection is needed above all by plants in pots and containers, newly planted or only partly hardy plants, and evergreen shrubs in sunny, windy spots. Move containers to a sheltered house wall and wrap the pot, cover beds with leaves or mulch, and wrap tender plants in horticultural fleece when it freezes.
Why are container plants most at risk?
In a bed, the surrounding soil protects the roots; in a container there is only a thin wall. The root ball therefore freezes faster and right through, even in plants considered hardy in the ground. Group containers against a sheltered house wall, stand them on wooden or polystyrene boards rather than directly on cold ground, and wrap the pots in bubble wrap, hessian or straw mats.
What do I use to protect plants in beds?
- Mulch and leaves: a layer of at least 5 centimetres over the root area dampens ground frost, well suited to perennials, rose graft unions and young plantings.
- Horticultural fleece: heavier fleece gives only about 2 degrees of protection, but it keeps off wind and cold, drying sun. Laid double, it works better.
- Conifer branches: laid loosely over tender plants, they protect against winter sun and frost without snow cover.
Why do evergreens suffer in winter?
Evergreen shrubs such as cherry laurel or box lose water through their leaves even in winter. When the ground is frozen, the roots cannot replace it, and the leaves dry out even though the plant has not frozen. So water evergreens on frost-free days when the soil is dry, and shade them in strong winter sun.
What should I avoid with winter protection?
Plastic sheeting placed directly on the plant traps moisture and encourages rot. Use it only for containers, never for stems and leaves. Remove fleece for a while on mild days so no moisture builds up, and check the protection after a storm or snowfall.
Which plants in your garden are actually frost-tender is shown in the Maluna plant catalogue, described in the plant knowledge area on the page Maluna features.